baler part ii: surfing at sabang beach

part i // part ii // part iii

7AM. The waves rolled one after the other. Young instructors getting kicked in the face by their students. In return, I get slapped in the face by the sea. Surfboard slaps me as well. Loads of laughter drowned by the sound of waves. Pain. Face, neck, arms, chest, abdomen, hips, thighs, legs. Drowning, resurfacing. Getting tired.

Resting on board. Whitewash, sea foam, the sun hitting the water perfectly, mist. Absorbed in the little scene, grinning. Looking ahead, living in the moment, telling myself I was made for this day.

Waiting for the next big wave and anticipating thrill. Wave too big, holding on tight, shutting eyes -- there I go. 45 degrees hanging in the air. Seconds trickled, board and body plopping down, hard.

Thinking: Life's just too short not to be here, now.